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Time-warp tavern in Cwm Gwaun named one of the best pubs in the UK

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National Geographic hails Pembrokeshire pub as ‘perfection’

A PUB in the heart of rural Pembrokeshire has been named one of the best in the UK by National Geographic – and locals are not surprised.

The Dyffryn Arms in Cwm Gwaun, known fondly as Bessie’s, has taken fourth place on National Geographic’s newly published list of the UK’s “Perfect Pubs”.

Described by the magazine as a “time-warp tavern” that offers “perfection”, the Dyffryn Arms has become legendary for its simplicity, charm, and deeply traditional character – and now it has national recognition to match.

Situated near Fishguard, at the foot of the Preseli Hills, the pub has been run by the same family for generations. Until her passing in 2023, the pub was famously run by landlady Bessie Davies, whose name became synonymous with the place itself.

There is no bar as such at Bessie’s – just a hatch in the wall. Ring the bell, and a jug of Bass is brought through. No fruit machines, no music, no gastro menu – just a pint, a portrait of the Queen, and some good company.

National Geographic said: “Perched on the edge of the picturesque Preseli Hills, this time-warp tavern is extraordinarily old fashioned. Known as ‘Bessie’s’ after the legendary landlady who died in late 2023, it’s more a tiny living room than a local. On ringing a bell, the hatch is opened and just one beer, Bass, is served fresh.”

“There’s a portrait of the late Queen Elizabeth II and two benches outside. Perfection.”

The Dyffryn Arms was the only Welsh pub to make the 12-strong list, which includes establishments in Edinburgh, London, Cornwall and Belfast.

High praise from visitors

Tripadvisor reviews echo the acclaim, with a 4.5-star average from nearly 100 reviewers. One visitor said: “Idyllic setting in the beautiful Gwaun Valley. This pub is famous for its basic interior which hasn’t been changed over the years. The beer is good too!”

Another wrote: “This cannot be beaten. A wonderful experience. Anyone who does not appreciate this experience simply doesn’t understand. Best pint in Pembrokeshire in a truly stunning location.”

Pint of tradition

The Dyffryn Arms has long been a favourite of CAMRA and is a regular feature in real ale guides, but its inclusion in a mainstream publication like National Geographic may bring a new wave of attention.

Whether you’re a first-timer or a regular, one thing’s for certain – at Bessie’s, nothing much changes. And that’s exactly the point.

 

Local Government

Armed Forces flag flies over County Hall

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THE ARMED FORCES flag is flying proudly at County Hall this week ahead of Armed Forces Day on Saturday, June 27.

Leader of Pembrokeshire County Council, Cllr Tessa Hodgson, and the Council’s Armed Forces Champion, Cllr Simon Hancock were among those who marked the flag raising on Monday morning (June 22).

Also present were the Chairman of Council, Cllr Delme Harries, the Chief Executive, Will Bramble and the Regional Armed Forces Covenant Liaison Officer, Hayley Edwards.

Cllr Hancock said: “It is always a very proud moment to see the Armed Forces Flag flying over County Hall.

“Armed Forces Day is a chance to show our deep appreciation for the men and women who serve, as well as the families and communities who support them.

“Our county has a rich history of connection with the Armed Forces, and we are proud to uphold and strengthen that bond.

“As a Council we are committed to ensuring that members of the Armed Forces community in Pembrokeshire receive the recognition and support they truly deserve and we are proud to be a Defence Employer Recognition Scheme Gold Award holder.”

 

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Crime

Accused Milford Haven rapist to stand trial at Crown Court

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A MILFORD HAVEN man has appeared before magistrates accused of rape and sexual assault.

James Kershaw, 46, is charged with raping a woman in Milford Haven between February 1, 2013, and March 31, 2014.

He also faces a charge of sexually assaulting a female over the age of 13 by penetration with his finger between December 1 and December 30, 2012.

Kershaw appeared before Haverfordwest Magistrates’ Court on Tuesday (Jun 23) by video link and denied both charges.

Due to the seriousness of the allegations, magistrates declined jurisdiction and sent the case to Swansea Crown Court, where Kershaw is due to appear for a pre-trial hearing on July 24.

He was released on conditional bail, with the sole condition that he must not contact the complainant.

 

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News

Bus overturns in major incident near Kidwelly

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All passengers rescued as emergency services remain at scene

A BUS overturned on the A484 between Kidwelly and Ferryside on Tuesday (Jun 23), prompting a major emergency response and lengthy road closures.

The incident happened shortly after 12:20pm near the Kidwelly roundabout at Parc y Bocs.

Emergency services, including firefighters from Kidwelly, Carmarthen and Tumble, were sent to the scene following reports of a serious collision involving the bus.

Mid and West Wales Fire and Rescue Service confirmed that all passengers were safely removed from the vehicle.

A spokesperson said: “All passengers have been safely removed from the bus and are receiving appropriate care.”

A rest centre has been established at the John Burns Centre in Kidwelly, where welfare arrangements are being made for those involved.

The scale of the incident led Dyfed-Powys Police to declare a major incident earlier in the day, with officers urging members of the public to avoid the area.

The A484 remains closed between the Kidwelly roundabout at Parc y Bocs and Llandyfaelog while emergency services continue their response and carry out investigations into the cause of the crash.

Police, ambulance and fire crews remain at the scene.

Motorists are being advised to find alternative routes and are warned that the road is expected to remain closed for a considerable time.

Emergency services have also issued advice for drivers caught in congestion during the hot weather, urging people to stay hydrated, keep vehicles ventilated and never leave children, vulnerable adults or pets inside parked vehicles.

The cause of the incident has not yet been confirmed.

The Herald will provide further updates as more information becomes available.

 

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