National Geographic hails Pembrokeshire pub as ‘perfection’

A PUB in the heart of rural Pembrokeshire has been named one of the best in the UK by National Geographic – and locals are not surprised.

The Dyffryn Arms in Cwm Gwaun, known fondly as Bessie’s, has taken fourth place on National Geographic’s newly published list of the UK’s “Perfect Pubs”.

Described by the magazine as a “time-warp tavern” that offers “perfection”, the Dyffryn Arms has become legendary for its simplicity, charm, and deeply traditional character – and now it has national recognition to match.

Situated near Fishguard, at the foot of the Preseli Hills, the pub has been run by the same family for generations. Until her passing in 2023, the pub was famously run by landlady Bessie Davies, whose name became synonymous with the place itself.

There is no bar as such at Bessie’s – just a hatch in the wall. Ring the bell, and a jug of Bass is brought through. No fruit machines, no music, no gastro menu – just a pint, a portrait of the Queen, and some good company.

National Geographic said: “Perched on the edge of the picturesque Preseli Hills, this time-warp tavern is extraordinarily old fashioned. Known as ‘Bessie’s’ after the legendary landlady who died in late 2023, it’s more a tiny living room than a local. On ringing a bell, the hatch is opened and just one beer, Bass, is served fresh.”

“There’s a portrait of the late Queen Elizabeth II and two benches outside. Perfection.”

The Dyffryn Arms was the only Welsh pub to make the 12-strong list, which includes establishments in Edinburgh, London, Cornwall and Belfast.

High praise from visitors

Tripadvisor reviews echo the acclaim, with a 4.5-star average from nearly 100 reviewers. One visitor said: “Idyllic setting in the beautiful Gwaun Valley. This pub is famous for its basic interior which hasn’t been changed over the years. The beer is good too!”

Another wrote: “This cannot be beaten. A wonderful experience. Anyone who does not appreciate this experience simply doesn’t understand. Best pint in Pembrokeshire in a truly stunning location.”

Pint of tradition

The Dyffryn Arms has long been a favourite of CAMRA and is a regular feature in real ale guides, but its inclusion in a mainstream publication like National Geographic may bring a new wave of attention.

Whether you’re a first-timer or a regular, one thing’s for certain – at Bessie’s, nothing much changes. And that’s exactly the point.

Local fleet ‘locked out’ as foreign trawlers retain access to Pembrokeshire coastline

A NEW deal between the UK and the European Union has sparked anger among local fishermen after it emerged that EU vessels will retain access to British waters until 2038 — effectively freezing post-Brexit arrangements for another 12 years.

The agreement, announced on Sunday (May 19), confirms that the status quo on fishing access will continue, with EU boats allowed to operate in UK waters on the same basis as before. This comes despite earlier promises that the UK would take full control of its waters from 2026 under Boris Johnson’s post-Brexit deal.

In return, the UK has secured a simplified export regime for food products, including a new sanitary and phytosanitary (SPS) agreement allowing seafood producers to sell raw shellfish and processed goods like sausages into the EU without extensive checks. British holidaymakers will also benefit from greater access to e-passport gates in Europe.

But in Pembrokeshire, where the local fleet has dwindled to just a handful of active fishing vessels — many of them small inshore boats registered under the “M” designation for Milford Haven — the reaction has been grim.

‘A betrayal of Brexit promises’

One local fisherman, who fishes for crab and lobster off the Pembrokeshire coast, told The Herald: “We were told we’d get our waters back by 2026 — now we’re being told to wait another 12 years. Most of us won’t be here by then. It’s a betrayal.”

As locals well know, Milford Haven was once one of the busiest fishing ports in Britain, but today has only a modest local fleet, with most of the fish landed at the docks coming from Belgian or Spanish vessels operating under EU licences. These foreign boats often have greater range, capacity, and quota rights than local Welsh boats, leading to growing resentment.

“The EU trawlers come right up to the six-mile line and hoover up everything,” said another skipper, who asked not to be named. “We get the scraps, and now we’re being told to get used to it.”

Wider backlash across the UK

The reaction has been echoed across the British fishing industry. Elspeth Macdonald, Chief Executive of the Scottish Fishermen’s Federation, called the deal “a horror show,” adding: “It is far worse than Boris Johnson’s botched Brexit agreement. The industry has been sold out once again.”

Reform UK leader Nigel Farage was even more blunt, saying: “If true, that will be the end of the fishing industry.”

Tim Eagle, Scottish Conservative spokesperson on fisheries, described the agreement as “an absolute disaster,” accusing the Labour government of “surrendering to Brussels.”

Local economy gets a mixed deal

The deal includes a new £360 million “fishing and coastal growth fund” intended to support investment in new technology and equipment. But it remains unclear how much, if any, of that money will reach Milford Haven or the small-scale fleet that still operates from Pembrokeshire.

Meanwhile, seafood processors and exporters in the region are cautiously welcoming the new SPS rules, which will make it easier to export shellfish and fish into EU markets.

“It’s a relief,” said one processor based near the docks. “We’ve had consignments held up or rejected because of paperwork since Brexit. Anything that makes it easier to sell to Europe is a good thing — but it doesn’t solve the problem that we’ve barely got any local fish left.”

The Herald understands that EU vessels currently land over half the fish processed through Milford Haven, with much of it shipped back to the continent. For many in the local industry, the port has shifted from being a home to Welsh fishing to a service hub for foreign fleets.

Welsh Government reaction awaited

While the UK government has defended the deal as providing “certainty and stability” to the fishing industry, opposition parties and coastal MPs have condemned it. The Conservatives have accused the Labour-led negotiating team of “handing back sovereignty,” and Plaid Cymru has called for Wales to receive a guaranteed share of the coastal fund.

Looking to the future

The agreement effectively rules out any major changes to fishing access for another generation. With most of Milford Haven’s remaining boats operating close to shore and relying on non-quota species like crab, lobster, and scallops, the prospects for growth appear limited.

“It’s a managed decline,” said one long-time observer of the port. “Unless there’s serious investment in small boats, apprenticeships, and fairer quota allocations, we could lose what’s left of our fleet before 2038 even arrives.”

Picture caption:

Fading fleet: Milford Haven was once home to one of the UK’s largest fishing fleets. Today, only a handful of “M” boats remain active, with most landings coming from foreign vessels (Pic: Milford Marina).

A 79-YEAR-OLD farmer from Whitland is facing a string of serious animal welfare and regulatory charges following an investigation at Penycraig Farm in Carmarthenshire.

Thomas Raymond Jones, of The Flats, St John Street, Whitland, appeared before Llanelli Magistrates’ Court on Friday (May 16), where he pleaded guilty to two offences and not guilty to a further fourteen.

Martha Christine Randell of Tawelan, Bronwydd Road, Carmarthen was also charged with the same set of offences and leaded the same way.

The charges, brought by Carmarthenshire County Council, stem from alleged breaches of the Animal Welfare Act 2006, the Veterinary Medicines Regulations 2013, the Cattle Identification Regulations 2007, and the Animal By-Products (Enforcement) (Wales) Regulations 2014.

Among the most serious allegations, Mr Jones and Mrs Randell are accused of causing unnecessary suffering to a dog by failing to provide a suitable environment, proper diet, or medical treatment. He has pleaded not guilty to this offence.

They aer also charged with causing unnecessary suffering to nine lame cattle by failing to obtain veterinary treatment – a second offence under the Animal Welfare Act, to which he also pleaded not guilty.

However, the pair admitted two offences:

• Failing to meet the welfare needs of bovine animals by not providing dry lying areas and allowing access to a cow carcass.
• Failing to comply with animal by-product regulations by not ensuring the timely removal and secure storage of dead livestock, thus posing a risk to public and animal health.

Additional not guilty pleas were entered in relation to:

• Failing to provide feed and water to a cow and a calf.
• Obstructing a veterinary inspector during an official visit.
• Failing to keep proper veterinary medicine records.
• Failing to report the deaths and movements of animals and loss of cattle passports.
• Keeping untagged bison, and
• Failing to register two bulls within the required timeframe.

In total, the defendants are facing 16 separate charges. The offences span multiple dates between February and March 2024 and relate to alleged mismanagement of both companion animals and livestock.

Magistrates adjourned the case to June 13 for case management. The defendants, who are represented by Richard Griffiths Solicitors, were excused from attending the next hearing.

(Image: File photo of bison)